Knit Fabric Descriptions

Lets talk Fabric Descriptions/Definitions!

 

Hacci- Brushed/Non brushed: 

 

Also known as a type of sweater knit, has a more loopy, open-knit texture than your average knit like a rayon spandex or french terry. Being a wrinkle resistant material makes hacci ideal for grab and go outfits. Overall, hacci has a wide variety of weights and weave thicknesses. Thus making it important to check the ounces when shopping for a particular pattern in mind. Ultimately, brushed hacci and non brushed hacci are the same fabric with varying finishing processes. Brushed hacci (and other brushed fabrics such as brushed polyester, brushed french terry, or the like!) undergoes a mechanical brushing process where metal brushes with very fine tips meticulously “comb” the fabric raising the layer from its previous surface. Which then mimics like a fleece without the grimmy feeling. Ultimately, making brushed hacci a more cozy fabric than normal hacci. Some of my favorite items to make from hacci are lounge pants, sweaters, joggers, cardigans, knee high socks, scarves and more! 



Rayon Spandex- 95% Rayon 5% Spandex:

 

Rayon Spandex is a garment fabric ideally made for outfits. Before we can fully understand rayon spandex let’s break the two down. What is rayon? Rayon is an artificial textile (man-made) composed of cellulose derived from plant sources. These sources are trees such as bamboo, cotton, plant pulp. Making a lot of companies marketing rayon as a natural fiber. Whatever the case is, it’s clear to label rayon as sustainable material (recyclable material). Since rayon is more absorbent than cotton it's a great fabric we can use during humid months. Whereas cotton, chenille or the like is better to use in cooler climates. What is spandex? Spandex is a lightweight, soft, synthetic fiber which has a unique elasticity. Being made on synthetic polyurethane gives it extraordinary stretch. When mixing the two you get a mostly natural based product with the ability to stretch. Providing multiple uses for daily garment wear. Since rayon spandex is cool overall it is more ideal for sportswear, summer and spring wear, but with the proper pieces rayon spandex can be used in cooler months if layered. Some of my favorite outfits for Rayon spandex is dresses, tops or tank tops, palazzo pants or maxi skirts! 



French Terry- 

 

One of my favorite fabrics is French Terry which is so versatile for many seasons! We will get into that in a little bit. First let’s dig into some of the unique characteristics French Terry offers and when it first made its appearance in the fashion world. French terry originally popped up in the 1980’s. Therefore I bet even if you are unsure of its name you have or have had french terry once in your closet! It’s a knit fabric with small loops on one side and a smooth surface on the other. French terry is used for many daily uses but its most common uses are items such as sweatpants and sweatshirts. It is heavier than a T- shirt but lighter than most winter sweaters. Making it a great item to either use by itself or as a top layer over a base fabric to make for easy removal if you get hot! It is moderately absorbent, moisture-wicking. This gives it the ability to absorb sweat on the body but not as absorbent as a towel such as a terry cloth fabric. Whereas french terry is best for casual clothes such as running errands, lounging at home, cozy sweaters for cool and cozy days, it could be used in the right setting of gym attire. Since it is a little absorbent it can be a good item to use after the gym to soak up sweat when you are cooling off with its moisture-wicking properties. 



Brushed Polyester- 96% polyester 4% spandex

 

Brushed polyester, having many abbreviated names such as DBP, BP, Brushed poly, with few properties separating the names is such a hit these days. I think it’s safe to say brushed polyester owes much of its popularity in the fabric industry to Lularoe. Putting the abbreviations for this fabric aside it all comes from the same fabric base which is called DTY. DTY stands for “drawn texturised yarn”. In short, DTY is a polyester based fabric with a cotton feel. It’s produced to have durability qualities and retention properties. Now what happens when you take the base fabric DTY and put it through the brushing machines you get brushed polyester or double brushed polyester if brushed on both sides. These machines are used in a lot of or daily wear fabrics. Anything that is labeled “brushed” has likely gone through this process. Brushed Polyester (and other brushed fabrics such as brushed hacci, brushed french terry, or the like!) undergoes a mechanical brushing process where metal brushes with very fine tips meticulously “comb” the fabric raising the layer from its previous surface. Which then mimics a smooth, slightly fuzzy (or very fuzzy if done to fabrics such as french terry or hacci.) surface providing warmth within the fabric! Because brushed polyester is a polyester blend it is less breathable than cotton or bamboo products therefore not super ideal for hot humid climates, however it makes an amazing product for cooler climates! Some of my favorite uses for garments in brushed polyester are athletic leggings, skirts, shirts, tops and tanks, and even dresses! 



Waffle knit

 

Waffle fabrics are made up of polyester and spandex or sometimes rayon, polyester, and spandex. It is exactly what you would picture if your favorite breakfast item became a fabric! If you like textured fabrics good for cooler climates, waffles are the go to for cozy, soft, fabrics ideal for fall or winter when you just want to bundle up! With its raised rectangular threads, waffle fabric has a very distinct honeycomb like texture which was designed to trap in heat. It's made from a weft weave/knit to provide a three dimensional effect. Due to its unique design elements, waffle fabric retains heat and provides insulation for optimal warmth lock in. Though don’t be fooled, with the proper patterns like most garment fabrics, waffle knit can be an awesome added summer attire! Ideally, if you were to use waffle during the warmer months keep it simple. Something like a loose tank top or crop top will make it to where you have an awesome textured outfit with minimal fabric to still keep you cooler. Waffles are not as stretchy as other fabrics like French Terry, Double brushed poly, or the like. However it does have a 4 way stretch. Usually about 40% selvage to selvage and 20% along selvage. Some of my favorite items for winter wear in waffle fabrics are two piece sets, cardigans, long sleeve shirts, pajama sets, and more! 

 

Velvet

 

If you are looking for a great fabric suitable for evening wear or holiday outfits look no further. Velvet being originally made from silk but now more modernised with fabrics such as wool, cotton, polyester, or mohair is luxurious but affordable. Velvet has multiple uses not only for clothing such as upholstery or even drapery! Obviously if one is marketing velvet for drapes that would also indicate its drape quality is up to par! This is due to its characteristics of short pile fibers. Velvet is made on a special loom known as a double cloth. This machine produces two pieces of velvet simultaneously being half a centimeter thick. It has a plain back with a thick, yet extremely soft surface, with a smooth nap making its appearance shiny. Then there's also another common velvet fabric called Crushed Velvet. This is essentially the same product but the procedures done to get its finishing appearance are a little different. When regular velvet is created it is left with its raised surface as its finished product. Allowing for a smooth balanced surface throughout the fabric. Crushed velvet however is just as suggested. It's literally crushed. Twisting the yarn while wet or by pressing the pile in different directions. This process makes the pattern shiny with a very unique sheen texture! Some of the most ideal makes from velvet are dresses, bomber blazers, one pieces, bell bottoms and so many other awesome special occasion outfits we all need! 

 

Rib knit

 

Don’t get rib knit confused with ribbing. There is a pretty distinct difference between RIBBING and RIB KNIT. Ribbing is designed to create cuffs, waistbands, and neck bands due to its high degree of elasticity in the crosswise direction. Rib knit on the other hand is designed to create full garments! Shirts, rompers, dresses, sweaters, and so much more. Now I know that makes for a huge variety in possibilities but that’s because it all boils down to what type of fabric has the rib design on it. See when you are talking rib knit it’s not one fabric fits all. It can be composed of many different fabrics but with a rib design. So to fully understand this lets break down the design. A rib knit design forms ribs on both the face and the back of the fabric.Thus raising the rib on one side and then doing the same to the back side rib. This makes both sides appear the same. The ribs usually are parallel to the fabric bolts selvage. Rib knits come in many different ribs. This is calculated by counting the rows of different thread from one ribs start to finish to the other ribs start to finish. The most common sizes are 1x1, 2x2, 3x3, 6x6. Though there’s also multisized ribs where they can be something like 4x6, 2x4, etc. This makes for unique patterns with whatever the count is. Now back to why you can make such a variety of items with rib knits is because of what base the rib knit design was used on. Ultimately, you can put a rib design on almost any fabric. Put it on a brushed hacci and you have a brushed hacci rib knit, put it on a rayon spandex and you have a rayon spandex rib knit! This list goes on which is why I really enjoy the endless possibilities rib knits offer!

ITY- 95% Polyester 5% spandex

 

ITY stands for Interlock Twisted Yarn which is due to the methods used while being manufactured. When ITY is created the manufacturer puts a twist in the yarn to create natural elasticity.  This unique twisting feature also helps the fabric be cool and ultra soft! It’s a silky fabric with a slippery hand. However, being a polyester base it is not as breathable like bamboo or rayon spandex. Therefore ITY is best used in the transition of winter to spring and summer to fall. It is semi-opaque and lightweight. With a springy stretch that provides amazing recovery and drape. ITY is easy to work with but due to its slippery hand it doesn't hurt to add a few extra pins while sewing! Some of our favorite outfits here at Sincerely Rylee Fabrics are maxi skirts, palazzo pants, rompers, and flowy dresses!

 

Chenille

 

Did you know Chenille is the French word for caterpillar? Makes sense why the fabric was named after a caterpillar since its yarn typically can look similar! Its fuzzy yarn makes for an extra warmth to any finished garment for those cool and cold months. Chenille actually resembles something you have likely heard of before or may even enjoy keeping in your wardrobe! Being iridescent like Velvet allows the look to differ depending on what direction you are looking at the fabric. Some of its key characteristics are fuzzy, soft, and bunchy!  It has fantastic drape, but its durability can change depending on how tight the weave of fibers are. The tighter the better! I would always recommend finishing the edges of Chenille fabric as it can fray if left raw. Usually using a stretch needle or a zigzag stitch will help keep the fibers together better than a serger (contradicting most other fabrics we carry at Sincerely Rylee Fabrics!) Hand wash or machine wash on gentle. When drying keep it on low heat or flat lay to dry. I do not recommend hang drying. When it comes to what to make it  can be pretty versatile! Sweaters, to lounge wear, even beanies to keep those ears cold in the winter months!  



Ponte Knit (Polyester/Lycra) This opaque, slightly thicker, sturdy double-knit construction has a fine crosswise rib texture. Stretches selvage to selvage. Easy to sew. Used for pants, tops, dresses, and skirts.

 

Burnout Jersey Knit (Polyester/Cotton/Lycra) Similar to Cotton/Lycra Jersey. This soft fabric has semi-sheer areas that were "burn-out" of the fabric during the manufacturing process. Has selvage to selvage stretch. Suitable for T-shirts, tops, dresses, and scarves.

 

Scuba Knit (Polyester Lycra) Scuba Knits have a great stretch and recovery: similar to ponte knit, but with more drape. Slick surface like a scuba outfit. Easy to sew. Suitable for dresses, leggings, dkirts, and active/dance-wear (if 4 way stretch).

 

Sweater Knit Fabrics: Sweaterknits can range from French Terry to Hacci

               French Terry Knit (Cotton/Rayon/Lycra) This semi-opaue sweatshirt staple has soft looped reverse for added warmth. Easy to sew. Suitable for sweatshirts, sweat pants, sweatbands, tops, and dresses.

             

 



 

Swimwear Knit (Nylon/Lycra) This semi-opaque knit can come in a variety of weights. Some require lining. Some contain chlorine resistant and anti-fade finishes. Has 4 way stretch. Use extra care when sewing. Suitable for swimwear and active wear.

 

Stretch Lace (Nylon/Lycra) Lightweight, sheer,mesh-like quality. Most have slippery hand. Needs to be stabilized when sewn. Use extra care when sewing. Suitable for blouses, intimates, and evening-wear.

 

Jersey Knit (Cotton/Lycra) This semi-opaque knit has a soft hand. Edges curl up to the right side when cut. Selvage to selvage stretch, sometimes can have 4 way stretch. Can also come in as sheer weight called "tissue" weight. Use care when sewing. Suitable for T-shirts, tops, dresses, and scarves.

 

Jersey Knit (Rayon/Lycra) This this semi-opaque jersey has fluid drape, slight sheen, and sometimes has small slabs. Edges curl up on right side when cut. Selvage to selvage stretch, sometimes can have 4 way stretch. Use care when sewing. Suitable for T-shirts, tops, dresses, and scarves.

 

100% Cotton Rib Jersey Knit (100% Cotton) This semi-opaque knit has soft hand. Has mechanical selvage to selvage stretch, not as much stretch as knit with lycra. Use care when sewing. Suitable for T-shirts, tops, dresses, and scarves.

 

Mesh Knit (Nylon/Lycra) This light weight sheer knit has semi-crisp hand and nice drape. Has selvage to selvage stretch. Has a look of netting, but stretches and bounces back. Suitable for blouses, lingerie, dresses, tops, tunics, scarves, and shawls.

 

Jacquard Double Knit (Polyester Lycra) Jacquard knit structure creates texture and designs. Double the thickness of standard jersey knit. Very sturdy, balanced fabric. Stretches selvage to selvage. Can be composed of other fibers. Easy to sew. Suitable for dresses, structured tops, and skirts.

 

Double Knit (100% Polyester) Double in thickness of a standard jersey knit. Opaque, very sturdy, balanced fabric. Can be composed of other fibers. Easy to sew. Suitable for dresses, structured tops, and skirts.

 

Liverpool Knit/ Poly Fukuro Knit: (94% Polyester, 6%Spandex) Soft to the touch with a nice stretch. Face of fabric has texture to it while the back has a smooth finish. Fukuro Knit is opaque/non-sheer and light to medium weight. This fabric is great for tops, skirts, dresses, home decor, etc.

 

Sateen Fabric: A fabric made from yarns with low luster, such as cotton or other staple length fibers. The fabric has a soft, smooth hand and a gentle, subtle luster. Sateen fabrics are often used for draperies and upholstery.